This trip was all about splitting the difference: between adventure and comfort, between rest and action, between beach and nature, between expensive and hard-won. 

Some logistics:

Food: Moderate budget in St. Lucia is tough. Most resorts charge in USD and at high-end USD prices. Our pina coladas and rum punches cost pretty much what they do in a HCOL area in the US. Local restaurants offer much better prices. Overall, the quality of the food was excellent. After tallying all the costs of the trip, it was comparable to a moderate to high-end all inclusive. While we are not big eaters and drinkers, we didn’t hold back on the cocktails, but your mileage may vary. We ultimately prefer to travel more independently than is typical with an all-inclusive holiday, so for us this was worth it. Do eat at Martha’s Tables. It is deserving of all the good reviews. Food will come out on island time; it’s worth it.

Transportation: The car was essential for us. It provided the freedom and flexibility we needed, particularly with a sick child. Apart from to and from the airport, we stuck close to Soufrière so in fact didn’t drive any significant distance. Yes, the roads are windy. For the most part just fine. The Co-Pilot (husband) is a very confident and competent driver so we were in good hands. The hairiest drive was to Anse Chastanet beach which some may argue is purposely awful to keep us riffraff out. Our second traversing of this route gave us some additional grey hairs as the vehicle in front decided to abandon its plight and reverse back down the mountain, to hell with us behind him. I’d like it on the record that I remained cool, calm and collected, while the Co-Pilot momentarily lost it. Thanks yoga breathing.

Accommodation: Fond Doux was wonderful and exactly what we needed. The grounds were lush, the pools were beautiful (with a recently added larger pool plus the smaller cascading pools), the restaurant was good, and the staff attentive. The room was basic and might disappoint if you’re expecting luxury (we were not), but what it did provide was privacy and a balcony overlooking the vegetation for an evening sundowner. For the price-point, centrally located in Soufrière with all the amenities, and child-friendly, I’d recommend. And I can’t say enough good things about how wonderful the staff were with Pip (particularly Elizabeth in the restaurant!). I loved that there was a nature trail on site too. 

Now for the part beyond the spreadsheet: Every bloody trip we take, Pip (child) gets sick just before we’re set to travel. Weird rash before Costa Rica, diarrhea ahead of Mexico, fever and congestion this time. It’s gotten to the point where I remind her not to eat anything random, wash her hands, don’t cozy up to sick kids ahead of our travel dates. After one of these lectures, she asserted “Diarrhea is a part of life mom!”. I do not feel like diarrhea needs to be a part of our lives quite so much.

We always dither about whether this time it’s serious enough to cancel (always get the travel insurance!), but she consistently has a miraculous recovery as soon as we arrive at our destination. This time however, she did not. She’s a trooper. Not all kids (or adults for that matter) are as stoic and adventurous as she is, so this didn’t derail the vacation but we tend to travel slow anyway. I thought St. Lucia actually benefited us in this regard because it was not so beach and sun dominated as other Caribbean islands are. The ocean cleared her sinuses, the warm thermal pools soothed her body, the shaded rainforest foliage kept her out of the blazing sun, and we all had a good time.

This trip provided a good mix of relaxation and adventure. We did a lot of things, but never felt rushed or on-the-go.

What I didn’t like about St. Lucia was the exclusivity of the beach scene on the top-rated beaches. While all beaches are public and therefore open to the likes of us plebs, the major resorts located there “own” the best parts and prohibit non-resort guests from setting-up in front of their territory. It’s unpleasant, and I have a general distaste for elitism so this rankled me. Having said that, the beaches were clean and safe and had great amenities, so there’s that.    

For me, St. Lucia isn’t about the beaches. If you want the pristine, white sand and turquoise water of a Caribbean island then there are more accessible, cheaper options than St. Lucia. St. Lucia intrigued me because of its dramatic landscape: tropical, mountainous, volcanic. Closer and more affordable than Hawaii for us. Sugar Beach is St. Lucia’s white sand beach. It’s on all the postcards, travel magazines, and top-whatever lists, but it was not our favorite. The Viceroy monopolizes the scene and of course the setting is gorgeous, but it’s very popular with day-trippers from the cruises and it feels quite commercial compared with the more low-key Caribbean beaches we’ve visited. 

Also, wherever did I get the idea that Anse Chastanet Beach had a local laid-back vibe? It too is dominated by a luxury resort, the Jade Mountain resort. And it is very fancy and exclusive. If I had a ton of money to burn, I’d pick Jade Mountain over the Viceroy, because while the setting lacked the impressive bosom of the Pitons it felt more naturally beautiful. Anse Mamin is a short walk away (boat for the guests of Jade Mountain of course), and while still part of the resort territory felt more welcoming. We found this beach quite striking with its dark volcanic sand. It was the only beach we visited twice.

I enjoyed the caldera visit (the Drive-In Volcano at Sulphur Springs¹). It’s the closest I’ve come to a volcano and I thought it was pretty cool and informative. The landscape is stark and barren, almost like another planet. Pip was disappointed in the lack of lava. I’m not sure I trust her around lava. The Mud Baths were tourist overload. Get there early before the cruise ship and tour bus folks start piling in. Pip loved it though and it turned her whole mood around that day. 

After the Mud Baths, we were overwhelmed by the crowds pouring in and needed an escape. Instead of the Piton Falls as planned, we went to New Jerusalem Mineral Baths. We had the place to ourselves and it was glorious. At first you might wonder if you’re in the right place, there’s just a muddy trail leading into the jungle. The trail itself was quite nice, through the jungle and across a small river before you reach the true entrance to the pools. 

We did the Falls another day and they were great too. The Falls and adjoining pools are heated thermally so don’t expect a brisk mountain spring. Busier than New Jerusalem, in the sense that there were actually other people there, but not crowded. 

Tet Paul Nature Trail was very manageable and despite Pip’s initial protests, she did enjoy it. Gave the guide a chuckle when she told him, “You don’t have to be so dramatic!”.

Did I get my spa day? No.

Did we do every must-do activity on my list? Yes.

Thank you St. Lucia for splitting the difference between on and off the beaten track. It was just what I needed as I straddle the tension between seeking adventure and respite.

1. It claims to be the only drive-in volcano in the world but Cape Verde disagrees. ↩︎